Teaching English in Taiwan: A Realistic Guide
            By Tim Backes
  
            
              
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                |  The Taroko Gorge in Taiwan is part of the beauty of a diverse island with many English teaching jobs.  | 
               
             
            Before you  make the major decision to completely uproot yourself and move to Taiwan for  the sake of teaching English, you should take a very hard look at everything it  requires. 
            There are  three major areas you will need to cover in  terms of requirements: 
            
              -  Legal  requirements to teach English in Taiwan
 
              -  Realistic  financial requirements and expectations
 
              -  Lifestyle  requirements and expectations
 
             
            Your  transition to living and teaching will be much smoother when you make sure all  of these areas are both understood and adhered to as closely as possible,  especially the legal requirements. 
            Legal  Requirements to Teach English in Taiwan
            The very  first thing you need to do before making the  choice to head to Taiwan is to figure out if you have a realistic chance  at gaining legal employment.  
            While many people fly to Taiwan and try to work a few  months at a time on short-term visitor’s visas, this practice is both illegal  and extremely risky. Those caught are  more often than not deported and concurrently banned from reentering the  country for five years. 
            To teach legally,  you are going to need to meet a certain set of criteria that the Taiwanese  government has deemed necessary. 
            Everything  You Need for Your Work Visa
            To legally teach  English in Taiwan, you are going to need to obtain a work visa, which will then  allow you to get your Alien Resident Certificate  (ARC). However, work visas are not handed out to everyone, and you need to meet  these basic requirements to qualify. 
            Education 
            Legally  speaking, the bare minimum level of education that the government will accept for  a foreign English teacher is a 2-year  Associate Degree accompanied by a TEFL or TESOL certificate from a recognized  agency. It is important to note though that it still might be difficult to  obtain employment with a 2-year degree  since many schools still prefer teachers to have at least a 4-year university  education. 
            Most teachers  in Taiwan will have received their work visa from the government by proving  they have a Bachelor’s Degree from a university that is recognized by the  Taiwanese Bureau of Education. Most medium and almost all major universities  are recognized, but if you graduated from a considerably smaller and less well-known  school, you might want to check with the Taiwanese Bureau of Education before  proceeding with your job search. 
            Note: The  field of study is not important for most teaching jobs, but to teach in a public  school, you will need a teaching certificate. Most universities require an  M.A., M.S., or PhD.  
            Language 
            To teach English in  Taiwan you must be a native English speaker. As proof that you are  indeed a native English speaker, the Taiwanese government requires you to hold  a passport from one of the following countries: 
            
              - The United  States
 
              -  Canada
 
              -  Australia
 
              -  New Zealand
 
              -  The United  Kingdom
 
              -  Ireland
 
              -  South Africa
 
             
            Other  Considerations 
            If you are  college educated, speak native level English, and come from one of the above  countries, you are pretty much set as far  as legal requirements are concerned. 
            But to complete the  whole process of getting a work visa and ARC  there are a few additional requirements.  
            
              -  You must  be at least 20 years old, an age that should not be a problem for most people  since you will need to have completed some secondary education anyway.
 
              -  You must  get and pass a criminal background check. 
 
              -  You must  pass a health check that includes both a  tuberculosis and an HIV/AIDS test.
 
             
            Note: If you  are coming from a country that does not have low-cost health care, such as the  United States, you can get your health test done as lower cost in Taiwan. 
            The Process  of Getting Your ARC 
            Now that you  are sure you have all of the major requirements fulfilled, there are a few additional  steps needed to complete the process. 
            Get to Taiwan 
            It is almost  impossible to get a work visa while outside of Taiwan, especially for those  wishing to teach English. If you know you are legal, have your paperwork and  finances in check, and have made up your mind, then it is time to go to Taiwan. 
            Get a  Visitor’s Visa 
            Visa procurement is a  highly debated aspect of this process. In the past, you needed to apply for a  2-month visitor’s visa before arriving in Taiwan if you wanted to look for work  after landing. 
            The reason is  that you will want to get a visa is that entering under Taiwan visa exempt status has prevented some people  from getting their work visa. Technically speaking, the visitor’s visa gets  changed into a work visa. If there is not any visa (such as when you enter as  visa exempt), there is not any visa to  change. 
            It is not  always the case, and the rules are always in flux, but it is better to be safe  than sorry. 
            Note: Do NOT tell  the immigration officer that you want to look for work in Taiwan. They might  not let you enter the country. 
            Get a Sponsor 
            You will need  someone to apply for you. That means you need to find a job. Once you prove to  a school that you will be a great fit for them  and that you fulfill all of the legal requirements, they can move forward and  sponsor your application. 
            Most schools  will handle the paperwork and application processing for you as well as cover  the application fee of NTD$1000 (~ $34USD).  
            You will also  need to sign a contract for at least one  year with your sponsor, or the government will not grant you a work visa and  ARC.  
            Realistic  Financial Requirements and Expectations 
            If you want  to relocate to Taiwan, you should have an understanding of the average salary  as well as the cost of living. You should also know that not all teaching jobs  are the same. 
            Types of  Schools in Taiwan
           
            There are  five main types of opportunities for foreign English teachers to work in  schools in Taiwan, but many have some special requirements above and beyond the  bare legal necessities. 
            Kindergarten 
            In Taiwan there are four levels of kindergarten  encompassing students aged 2 to 6. There are also three types of kindergartens: 
            
              - Public
 
              -  Private
 
              -  Private-International
 
             
            The only one  of these three types of kindergartens that will employ a foreign English teacher is the private-international variety. It  is actually technically illegal to teach  at one of these though, as former president Chen, Shui-bian was worried about  the degradation of Taiwanese culture and so  banned foreign teachers from teaching Taiwanese children before first grade. 
            It is still  very common to see foreign English teachers at these schools, as the schools  tend to get warnings before raids. That does not mean they are risk-free though, and getting caught working illegally is a cause for deportation. 
            Buxibans 
            A buxiban is also referred to as a cram school. It  is the most common type of school for a foreign teacher to find employment.  
            Students  attend buxibans after their regular  school for extra lessons in a variety of subjects such as musical instruments,  math, and foreign languages. There are also adult buxibans, but they are not nearly as many and finding a job at one is usually more difficult. 
            Public Schools 
            Some public  schools have started English programs that feature a native English-speaking  teacher to help students with conversation and accent. You will need to have a  teaching certification from your home country, however. 
            Note: Many  recruiters also have a good assortment of buxiban  jobs. Keep in mind that they do get paid for their services, so if you should  choose to use one for buxiban work, they  may take a small chunk off of your bottom line. However, if time is of the  essence, they are a way to get the most interviews in the shortest amount of  time. 
            Private  Schools 
            Many private  schools also have English programs that feature native English speaking teachers.  They too prefer to hire certified teachers  or teachers who do not need sponsorship (the latter are teachers who are  married to a foreign spouse, or those who  have gained permanent residency due to living in Taiwan for over five years). 
            Universities 
            Teaching in a  university requires an advanced degree. These jobs are also extremely rare and get nabbed very quickly. If you are  new to Taiwan and new to teaching English, these types of positions are  basically off of the table. 
            Note: Many  teachers also take on private students that they find through online  communities or word-of-mouth. While these students usually pay more and are often both more interesting and rewarding to  teach, this practice is also technically illegal. If you do choose to take on private students, make sure you understand the  risks. 
            Average  Teacher’s Pay 
            Note: These  estimates are based on working for a buxiban. 
            Most schools  that are going to go through the trouble of supplying you with an ARC are going  to require you to work full-time. However, depending on the school, full-time  can be anywhere from 14 hours a week with some unpaid office hours mixed into a full 40-hour workweek.  
            If you are  only putting in around 20 hours or less, expect to receive an hourly rate. Most  schools start new teachers at NT$600 (~ $20 USD).  
            Some larger  chain schools will offer slightly lower rates but provide more substantial  training and perks, like an interest-free  startup loan. However, unless the school’s benefits are well documented and are  legitimized by social evidence, like discussions on popular TEFL internet  forums or Facebook groups, they should be  observed with skepticism. 
            School’s that  want their teachers to be present for closer to 40 hours usually pay on a salaried basis. The average starting  salary is NT$60,000 (~ $2,000USD). 
            No matter  which option you find, you will have 18% of your income held for taxes during  your first six months (183 days to be exact) of working in the country. That  rate then drops to 6%.  
            That means if  you arrive in Taiwan and start working in November, you will have 18% withheld  for both November and December of that year. The tax year then resets, and you  will have 18% of your income withheld for the first 183 days the following  year. Note: The longer-form explanation is in this post on Taiwan tax law. 
            Do not worry  though; you will get a very good chunk of that refunded. 
            One word of  warning about some of the salaried positions though is that many of them  include teaching kindergarten-aged students, which as previously mentioned is  technically illegal for foreign teachers.  
            Some schools  offer other financial incentives such as Chinese New Year’s bonuses and student  retention bonuses, but they are usually negligible and unreliable, so do not factor them into your potential annual earnings. 
            Average Cost  of Living 
            Though Taiwan  is small when compared to the likes of the United States or Australia, the cost  of living varies greatly from city to city and person to person.  
            Most foreign  teachers working full-time jobs tend to save $500USD or more monthly, but their  spending habits have a big impact on this amount.  Another major factor is the city in which they reside, as the rent for living  in central Taipei will easily run you double than that of living on the  outskirts of Taichung or Tainan. 
            The major  expenses that you need to plan for are: 
            
              - Rent
 
              -  Utilities
 
              -  Transportation
 
              - Food
 
              -  Nightlife
 
             
            In general,  most of the living expenses are much less costly than those in places like New  York City or London, especially rent and utilities, but entertainment costs are  very similar to western ones. 
            For a more  detailed real-life breakdown, here is a great example of living  expenses in Taiwan. 
            Lifestyle  Requirements and Expectations 
            Choosing  where to live while moving to Taiwan to teach is largely dependent on the type  of lifestyle you seek. Five major areas provide  the most opportunity. Each area has its own identity. 
            
            Taipei City 
            The capital  and largest city in Taiwan, Taipei is located in the far north and is surrounded by a ring of mountains. There are  by far the most teaching opportunities in Taipei City than there are in the  rest of the island, but it is much more competitive. 
            Some of the  pros to settling in Taipei are the ease of getting around (public transportation  is plentiful and the MRT is extremely convenient), and there is a lot of entertainment available,  from high-end restaurants to exciting nightlife. 
            Taipei City  is also the most expensive place to live, so it might not be the best choice  for someone looking to save as much money as possible. 
            New Taipei  City 
            New Taipei  City was formerly called Taipei County. It consists of a ring of smaller cities  located around Taipei.  
            While the MRT  does dip into some of the areas, you will probably need to buy a scooter to get  around. The good news though is that it is fairly cheap to live in these areas compared  to Taipei City. 
            Taichung 
            Taichung is centrally located. It is known for having  some of the best year-round weather in  Taiwan. 
            Though only  the third largest city in Taiwan, there are still a fair amount of teaching  jobs available. The competition is still a bit significant  since more affordable real estate has lured a lot  of foreign-owned restaurants and bars to the  area to set up shop. 
            There is no  MRT, but there are buses and very wide roads for those willing to drive a  scooter. 
            Tainan 
            Tainan is a  small city in southern Taiwan. There are not a lot of teaching jobs here, but  there are not as many foreign teachers either, so the competition is less  strong.  
            Tainan is  very open and does not have the rain or cold fronts you experience in Taipei.  But, it also does not feature as many foreign friendly areas.  
            That does not  mean locals are not friendly, but the language barrier can become a bit of a  problem here as opposed to Taipei. Still, Tainan tends to have a very close nit  foreigner community. 
             Kaohsiung 
            Kaohsiung in  an industrial city located in the deep south of Taiwan. It is much less discussed, but it’s still Taiwan’s second largest  city.  
            The city has a much more blue collar and laid back feel  to it, but it has many modern amenities. Like Taipei, Kaohsiung actually has its own MRT system, though it isn’t used  nearly as much. 
            Other Areas 
            There are  teaching jobs in other areas such as Taoyuan, as well as some small cities in  central Taiwan. Most of the jobs, however, branch out from city centers, as that  is where the parents with the money tend to live. 
            You can find  a nice job in a smaller rural school, but you also might get a lot less  support, both professionally and culturally. If you have thick skin and want to  dive deep into Taiwanese culture though, they are a great choice. 
            Tim Backes started  teaching English in Taiwan in 2005 and enjoyed many more years in the country  than the one year he had originally planned. 
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