Paths to Another Time

Hiking and Biking the Greenways Trails from Vienna to Prague

By Frank Hahn

The catastrophic events of the 20th century in Europe left parts of the Czech Republic isolated and untouched. Today, thanks to the efforts of the nonprofit Greenways  (www.pragueviennagreenways.org/index.html) organization, a traveler can stroll in medieval towns, hike or bike in the once exclusive hunting preserves of the Leichenstiens, sip the world’s finest beers in 14th century hotels--all at bargain prices with hearty meals, friendly people, and few tourists.

The Greenways hiking and biking trails from Vienna to Prague cover a distance of 250 miles. At the first town, Mikulov, the Greenways representative gave us the materials we needed to make the journey: detailed biking and hiking maps, city plans, points of interest, restaurant recommendations, and the location of each night’s lodging.

In the shadow of castle-topped hills and alongside Mikulov’s old castle walls lies an ancient Jewish cemetery. Vandals still topple gravestones and desecrate this lonely, lovely place; yet the cemetery is much larger and better kept than the tiny, much-visited one in Prague. The restoration of this town and the other heritage sites between Vienna and Prague is an ongoing and overwhelming Greenways project.

We biked to the next town, Lednice, along a tree-lined tertiary road with little traffic. From Lednice the bike path goes on to Valtice through former hunting preserves and private lakes of the deposed nobility. The ride is shady, easy, and uncrowded.

From Valtice Greenways took us to Vranov Nad Dyji, a village on the Dyji River near the Podyji National Park and the only remaining Czech remnants of the Iron Curtain. Watchtowers overlook the valley and a short hiking path follows the escape route to Austria. Nearby, on a high riverbank, is another completely restored 18th century chateau.

From here we went to Telc, a town which is now a World Heritage site and a prime example of what local initiative and foreign money can do. The 16th century town square, originally a rectangular parade ground, has a movie set quality. The pink, blue, and yellow walls and scrafitto-covered facades of the buildings on the square are etched with religious and mythological stories. A restored chateau and tree-lined lake at one end of the square add to the illusion that nothing has changed for centuries. Shops selling crystal, lace, and food are still in everyday use by the locals.

From here the route goes through a continuous string of picturesque towns. In Slavonice, an architectural gem where Russian occupiers forcibly evacuated residents in their attempts to seal off the border, allegorical scraffito-covered walls adorn most buildings. As I wandered about the near-empty town, I expected people, children, and noise. But only a few people have returned and the town still has a deserted atmosphere.

For more lessons in medieval life you can visit the huge castle in Jindrichuv Hradec. The still-usable kitchen looks as if the cooks will return shortly. The town also has interesting moats and hydraulic works that show the ingenuity of the ancient engineers. The route from Hradec to Trebon is through the Bohemian Lake District. Centuries of human effort created a series of fish farms. The route around the largest lake is a protected area and a pristine example of the area’s special environment. Here are fine fish restaurants, a great local brewery, and spas that offer massages and mud baths.

As the route nears Prague tour buses are in evidence. The town of Cesky Krumlov, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, is well worth visiting, but expect tourists.

As we approached Prague we had the option of hiking, biking, or kayaking the remainder of the distance. We hiked through the Valley of the Moon alongside a stream dotted with country cottages.

From beginning to end, the entire trip seemed to take place in another time. Since 12 percent of the $90 per day all-inclusive cost went back to Greenways to help their efforts, our experience also contributed to preserving the environment and history or a special part of the world.

Czech Greenways is a sister organization to the Hudson River Greenways. Contact: Friends of Czech Greenways, 515 Ave. I, 1-b, Brooklyn, NY 11230; 718-258-5468, www.pragueviennagreenways.org/index.html. Greenways Travel in Czech is represented in the U.S. by Summit International Travel, 800-527-8664.

FRANK HAHN is an international energy consultant and travel writer in Carmichael, CA. He has worked and lived in Europe and Africa and traveled extensively in the Middle East.