Living in Monasteries in India

By Mary Ann Davis

Religious pilgrims from all parts of Asia pass through Sarnath, India, near the city of Varanasi, and stay in its monasteries as they travel to other holy places. Many of the monasteries welcome Western visitors as paying guests. The rules are basically the same in all the monasteries--no smoking, drinking, or loud music. Watch how indigenous travelers conduct themselves and follow their example.

Dharmashala, the monastery operated by Sri Lanka’s Mahabodhi Society, is located on Sarnath’s main road, across from the park. The rooms are spartan—bed frames with thin futons, a table, and a broom--and Dharmashala’s electricity is unpredictable. Bath houses, sinks, and toilets are in the inner courtyard. You must pump your own bath and laundry water. Women and men bathe at different times, everyone remaining partially dressed. There are no other bathrooms and no cooking facilities. Tibetan travelers—traders as well as pilgrims—cook meals together in the evenings over fires in the courtyard.

The Nyingmapa Tibetan Buddhist Monastery is another excellent place to stay. Professors from Sarnath’s Tibetan Univ. teach courses in English in Tibetan philosophy and language. The cost is a small donation. There are peaceful gardens and a community kitchen, too. The rooms are new, some with private baths. The rent is about 200 rupees daily.

The “Old Tibetan Monastery,” near the Mishra Communications shop and grocery, has basic rooms that are often filled by Tibetan and Ladakhi pilgrims. This monastery serves as a gathering place for celebrations of all sects, including those of the Bon students from the University. (Bon is Tibet’s pre-Buddhist religion.) In the courtyard the always popular Tibetan restaurant tent, with its friendly monks and bright red benches, offers tasty meals from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. In the evenings, the cook plays recorded Tibetan folk music.

The canteen at the Tibetan Institute for Higher Learning, on the outskirts of Sarnath, is an excellent place to meet young Tibetan students. The open-air canteen--just inside the Institute’s gates--is also a good place to learn about educational opportunities, upcoming ceremonies, and traditional dances. The canteen serves basic, inexpensive Tibetan foods, including omelettes, butter tea, and hot Tibetan bread for breakfast.

Other places to stay in Sarnath: The Sarnath Tourist Bungalow, 240 rupees per night per person with attached bath, restaurant available. Rooms with families: Ask Dr. Dey at Gyan Joyti SDT, (011) 91-385542. The Jain Guest House, (011) 91-52-385621, has several rooms and family-style vegetarian meals, 300 rupees per night; see also www.webindia123.com for more places to stay.

The Chinese and Burmese monasteries also rent rooms. The Chinese monastery is basic and inexpensive, and the monks sometimes allow lengthy stays and cooking in the rooms. The Burmese monastery is very peaceful.

Staying in the monasteries and eating in tents with pilgrims and monks gives one a sense of the rhythm of religious life throughout Asia.

Indian Visa Requirements. The Indian government grants tourist visas for either six weeks or six months. The cost is $50 for U.S. citizens. Visas cannot be extended, although sometimes new visas are issued if you leave India, return, and apply again. Be sure to check visa regulations for details. Student and/or research visas require documentation from legitimate Indian schools, or from sponsoring universities abroad and a corresponding Indian university. The study/research visa process can take up to a year to process. Consult an Indian visa official for guidance.

MARY ANN DAVIS is a yoga teacher and Jin Shin Jyutsu therapist. See her article on Monastery Stays Near Kathmandu.