Teaching ESL in Asia

The Economic Crisis Has Changed Everything

By Tim Leffel

Prior to the Asian currency crisis that began in late 1997 English teaching jobs for North Americans in East Asia were plentiful. The benefits were excellent, and anyone who worked for a year in Japan or in one of the new Asian tigers could usually expect to save at least $10,000 per year. Those in less wealthy Asian nations saved less, but they enjoyed a high standard of living and could afford to travel around the region.

A year later it’s a different story entirely. The dollar has soared against the yen, and currency devaluations have clobbered salaries in South Korea and much of Southeast Asia. As the crisis continues, many private English schools throughout the region are shutting their doors or retrenching. Ambitious government programs are being scaled back. And many teachers are having a hard time supplementing their pay with private lessons as family budgets are tightened.

Aspiring ESL teachers should spend extra time researching potential employers, keep on top of global financial news, and perhaps re-evaluate their reasons for going abroad. Teachers can still make a good local salary in East Asia, but now is not the time to go there solely to save money or pay off debts.

Japan

The yen, which was once at 80 to the U.S. dollar, is now hovering around 120. Since salaries are paid in yen, the dollar equivalent has decreased by 45 percent. The average salary now is $1,500 to $2,000 per month, depending upon certification and experience. Housing, if not included, can eat up a lot of that. And everything in Japan is still very expensive in yen. On the plus side, it now costs less in dollar terms to get set up on arrival.

South Korea

The Korean won had already been declining steadily for three years, but the regional economic crisis sent it from 900 to the dollar to over 2,000 at one point. It is now around 1,250, which means the old standard salary of 1.2 million won a month is less than $1,000. Some of the stronger chains (such as YBM/Sisa and Pagoda) have raised salaries to $1,300 or more in local currency, but most of their competitors can’t even manage to pay the old salaries on time. Benefit packages look great on paper (housing, roundtrip airfare, etc.), but the notoriously dishonest employers here are now cheating on their contracts more than ever (see “Warnings” in sidebar). Applicants should stick with a reputable company and thoroughly check out the specific branch’s reputation. It’s still unbelievably easy to get a job here--physical appearance and enthusiasm are more important than qualifications--so teachers can afford to be choosy.

Taiwan

This crowded country still has the second highest demand for ESL teachers after Korea, especially for children’s schools. Salaries remain stagnant, however, and the local currency has dropped from 26 to the dollar to 35. Wages now average $900 to $1,500 a month for long hours, and housing ($100 to $250 per month) is rarely included. Certificates are not a requirement.

Singapore

English is already a commonly used language here, and teaching opportunities are becoming more limited. For those who do find a contract position, currency depreciation has shrunk salaries by nearly 40 percent. This used to be a hot market for teaching private lessons (especially business English), but many of the students were expatriates and a large number of them have been called home by their hard-hit employers.

Hong Kong

While Hong Kong was a booming British colony, learning English was a matter of course. Now the area is in a deep recession and the Chinese language is being pushed harder in public schools. Several private language schools have closed and student enrollment numbers are down. The currency peg has kept salaries stable, generally around $900 to $1,200 a month with no housing included. If a currency devaluation occurs, however, it will get ugly.

Thailand

This tourist playground has always attracted short-term teachers who were saving for their next flight. It also offered strong salaries for contract teachers, often with generous benefits. While employees can still live quite well on what they earn, the average dollar salary is generally less than $500 a month, or $3 to $6 an hour for short-term teachers. Private institutes in Bangkok have managed to adjust salaries in line with the baht’s devaluation. Individuals with an RSA Cambridge certificate pull in more money and receive airfare home. It’s cheaper than ever to travel within the country. Thailand still has a strong hold on many who come here.

Indonesia

This country is undoubtedly suffering the most. Its currency has plunged from 2,500 to over 13,000 to the dollar. Many teachers broke their contract when salaries dropped from $1,000 a month to under $200. The violence in Jakarta has sent many more packing. The country’s largest and most organized chain, EF, has resorted to hiring more local teachers and making it easier for native speakers to earn overtime pay. Smaller rural institutes can no longer afford to lure foreign teachers, and nobody pays salaries in foreign currency anymore. City institutes still pay well in local currency terms, however, and teachers’ standard of living remains high. Nice apartments, maid service, generous vacation time, and the world’s cheapest travel and restaurant prices help keep life here enjoyable.

And Now the Good News.

China

Demand for English teachers in this fast-growing economy is increasing steadily. For the moment at least the yuan is holding firm. Salaries average $200 to $400 per month, with housing and sometimes airfare included. This is enough to live well locally and travel within the country. In wealthy areas, there are ample opportunities to teach private lessons.

Vietnam

As markets have opened up here and foreign investment continues to build, opportunities for ESL teachers have greatly expanded. There has been some depreciation in the dong, but salaries are generally tied to the dollar. Benefit packages vary wildly, with pay anywhere from $250 to $1,000 a month (with an RSA Cambridge certificate). Many short-term positions are available, especially in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).

Web Resources

Over 100 web sites are devoted to ESL/EFL jobs in Asia. Most of them have links to Dave Sperling’s ESL Cafe (www.eslcafe.com), a site so perfect that it’s hard to see why you’d need to go anywhere else. It provides a job list updated daily and a mind-boggling (but well-organized) amount of material for the future or current teacher. It also provides links to specific institutes and chains in each country.

Not every school has a computer, of course, so print magazines still list jobs which are not on the Internet. In the U.S., subscribe to ESL Magazine, 220 McKendree Ave., Annapolis, MD 21401; (410) 570-0746, or check their web site at www.eslmag.com. The British Publication, English Language Gazette, (www.elgazette.com) available in some libraries, academic bookstores, and at the British Council, has a classified section for jobs in Asia.

TIM LEFFEL, a frequent contributor to Transitions Abroad, has taught English in Turkey, South Korea, and New York City. He recently spent eight months traveling through East Asia.

Click on the images above for more information on Tim Leffel's books and narrative travel webzine.