Outside, Looking In

Mexico: A Land of Opportunity for Those Who Live by Their Wits

By Kasandra Smith

The Spanish colonizers sent governors to foreign countries without adequate compensation. They were expected to supplement their incomes by exploiting the population. With luck and cunning, they could get rich, take the money home, and never work again.

The modern Mexicans inherited this system. The last president and vice president of the country took billions of dollars when they left office, and corruption exists at every level of government. But when workmen began dismantling the cobblestone streets in my town, replacing them with paving, I concluded that the present town government must be less corrupt. I mentioned this to my friend Lucio, and he roared with laugher. "No," he said, "the more work, the more money for the president. He’s only got until January to get rich." For every meter of road built, he adds his "commission." At least we’ll have better roads.

Patience is the characteristic which a gringo must develop to survive in Mexico. In the more than two years I have lived here, I have never seen anyone hurry, or exhibit a sense of urgency. An appointment is not definite, an appointment is a possibility. Life unfolds to its own rhythms, and it won’t be rushed.

I live in Armeria, in the state of Colima, in an agricultural community. Men riding horses herd cows from pasture to pasture, winding among the towering palms.

I teach English, make and sell baked goods, and occasionally translate everything from business or computer textbooks to instructions for medicines or video games. I also write articles and work on a book.

I have no outside income, so I’m living the same way my neighbors do. Most gringos who live in Mexico, full or part time, are insulated from this basic reality by pension checks or independent incomes. They think in dollars. I think in pesos because I live by pesos. The minimum wage is 30 pesos or about $3.50 a day.

Mexico remains the "land of opportunity" for those of us who want to live comfortably by our wits in a warm climate, away from the rapid pace of the U.S. Everything is negotiable. Rules, regulations, laws, prices--all can be bent to fit a situation.

I pay 300 pesos (about $40) rent a month. Electricity is another 120 pesos (about $15). Cable TV is another 80 pesos ($10). So my total monthly expenses are $65. It’s possible to rent an even more basic house for as little as 30 pesos. If you are interested in surviving at this level, it only requires imagination, a pleasant disposition, and knowledge of Spanish or an English-Spanish dictionary.

Renting a house, especially in a beach town, requires patience and tenacity. Usually more than half of the dwellings are empty, used only for Easter, Christmas, and an occasional weekend. Ask people in the town where you want to stay if they know of a house to rent. Then sit back and wait. Word spreads very fast.

Since most Mexicans can use the money, they often rent rooms to Mexican tourists during Semana Santa (Holy Week) when the hotels are full. Most of them have never known people from the U.S. and welcome the opportunity to watch us at close range.

A nice hotel room, furnished bungalow, or room with cooking facilities, can be had for anywhere from $6 to $12 a day for two. Of course, all prices are variable, depending upon factors known only to the hotel clerk or owner.

Technically, a U.S. citizen is allowed a six-month visa. However, this depends on the whims of immigration officials.

There are also permits available for people who legally work in Mexico. The rules, like all rules, are constantly in flux. If stopped for a traffic violation, allow the officer to play policeman for a discreet length of time, then ask him if he could take care of it for you. Don’t immediately thrust all your money at him. They’re usually quite reasonable.

Being a gringa in Mexico has advantages. My hosts have no one to compare me with, which gives me a certain amount of freedom. I am "in this world, but not of this world." But I also feel that I’m a representative of my country. Most of the people who know me have never known another U.S. citizen, so I’m on my best behavior. Mexicans hold many beliefs about gringos. They think we’re cold, casual about marriage and relationships, changing them like we change our clothes. To me, it seems this "macho" culture is also very casual about marriage and relationships. But then, I’m outside the picture looking in.