Portugal

Off-Season Paradise

By Donald L. Foster

If you’re in search of an inexpensive European resort with sandy beaches, bustling sidewalk cafes, and mild year-round temperatures--located a mere half-hour train ride from a thriving cultural center with a million of Europe’s friendliest people--head for Portugal’s Estoril coast. Prices on the Costa do Estoril, just 15 miles south of Lisbon, are half what you’d have to pay elsewhere in Western Europe. Off season, the Coast can be a lot less than half price. What’s more, there are no crowds, no need for reservations, and a micro-climate with winter temperatures in the lows 60s.

Next door to the town of Estoril and linked by a beach-side promenade is Cascias, a seaside playground for vacationers of all incomes from all countries, and a bedroom community for Lisbon office workers. Despite its resort atmosphere, Cascias retains all the charm and tranquil mood of an old-world village where fisherman share the beach with holiday-makers and where Lisboetas congregate on weekends to consume platters of ultra-fresh seafood.

Nearly all hotels have winter discounts of 15 to 20 percent or more, and many residencials offer winter discounts of up to 50 percent for long-term stays.

If you take a room without a private bath, you can slice off another 30 percent. Most rooms contain at least a wash basin. For still cheaper accommodations ask at one of the coast’s tourist offices for a list of private homes that accept guests. Hotel-apartments with kitchenettes are ideal for extended stays, especially for families.

Small family-run restaurants serve inexpensive multi-course meals to neighborhood workman and office workers in Lisbon’s Barrio Alto and Alfama districts and along the Estoril Coast. Some lack the traditional outside menus and even outdoor signs. Or create your meal from an outdoor market stall or indoor supermarket and then tote your goodies to a beach, park bench, or seaside quay. Many market stalls sell inexpensive snacks.

The Lisbon subway charges about 30 cents a ride when you purchase 10 tickets at a time. Buses, trains, cable cars--all are bargains, especially if you purchase one of the many discount passes available to visitors. The ancient streetcar, eletrico #28, named Parzeres (“Pleasures”) offers a cheap tour through Lisbon’s most picturesque neighborhoods.

A two-minute funicular, elevator, or streetcar ride will take you quickly from one barrio (district) to the other as well as provide an aerial view of a city which, like Rome, is built on seven hills. Views from the miradouros (“lookouts”), monuments, castles, and waterfronts (not to mention from the ferry boats that ply the Tejo River)--all offer still more breathtaking panoramas.

Lisbon’s most famous museums are free on Sunday, including some of Europe’s best: Gulbenkian Museum, Royal Coach Museum, Modern Art Museum, Ancient Art Museum, and the Belém tower.

Instead of spending $50 to $75 for the obligatory dinner and show that most fado restaurants charge, you can hear the same fado by paying a $10 to $15 minimum. Check with one of the Lisbon or Estoril Coast tourist offices for specific locations.

DONALD L. FOSTER is a Professor Emeritus of Librarianship at the Univ. of New Mexico.