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Just 13 miles north of Budapest lies Szentendre, a romantic little town and artists' haven and the gateway to the Danube Bend. Its Baroque houses, church steeples, and winding cobblestone streets give the impression that you're in an earlier time, even though it is just a 30- minute train ride from the capital. In the Fo ter (main square) are reminders of the Serbs and Greeks who settled the town in their flight from the Turks. On the same square, a rococo Serbian orthodox church still holds services.

Esztergom, 26 miles from Budapest on the westernmost curve of the Danube Bend, was Hungary's first capital. St. Steven, the country's first Christian king, was crowned here in 1000. The hilltop cathedral's art collection is a wonderful introduction to Hungarian history. The Kereszteny Museum, considered by many to be Hungary's finest art collection, is located in the Primate's Palace.

On our way back to Budapest we stopped in Visegrad, the seat of the Hungarian kings in the 14th century. A 40-minute hike to the Fellegvar (citadel) was rewarded with breathtaking views of the Danube Bend. After picking up a hiking brochure from the tourist office, I was already thinking about a return. The hist-orical richness and beauty-not to mention the low prices-on this stretch of the Danube will please any traveler.

By boat from Budapest the trip to Esztergom takes five hours, to Visegrad about three, and to Szentendre even less. Mahart boats can be reached at 011-36-1-318-1704; the current price is about $6 for the trip to Esztergom. The bus system in the region is cheap and extensive. Buses run frequently from Arpad hid bus terminal and the ride to Szentendre takes about 30 minutes. The HEV suburban train lines run from Batthyany ter (Margaret Island) and Szentendre every 15 minutes and costs around 75 cents.

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